That’s it, after 25 hours by plane and ...
That’s it, after 25 hours by plane and two stopovers in Frankfurt and San Francisco, I finally get to Maui. Phew, the boardbag is also arrived. Then direction Haiku, to join the housing, in a drizzling rain and a big wet heat.
The next day a great day ahead: Laurent Guillemin (GOYA) waiting for me to shop at 9:00. When I arrived at the Cannery, Pascal Bronnimann welcomes me, Francisco Goya and Keith Teiboul are also there. I am really impressed to meet them. Laurent then introduced me to different spots of the island, Sprecks, Camp One, Kanaha and Ho’okipa legendary for which, he explains the rules of navigation with surfers and gives me valuable advice for beginners, pass the shorebreak take the channel …. Then the direction of Mecca for my first session earlier this afternoon with a light wind, a big shorebreak, small waves and turtles! Before rigging, I watch the riders into the water, join the channel along the famous rocks of Hookipa, then, I decide to 3.6 and go. On the water, I meet Josh Stone, Morgan Noireaux, both impressive.
Weather days ahead of the top, including a day with a mat size and fairly steady wind. The spot is full of professional riders with Levi Siver, Victor Fernandez, Ricardo Campello, Kauli Seadi, Marcilio Browne, Keith Teboul, Robby Swift, Mark Angulo, Bernd Roediger, Camille Juban, Morgan Noireaux … The hard part is making the right waves, watch out for photographers in water, riders who swim after their gear, and not getting eaten by the walls of water: short learning …
The next will be the hardest of stay. The wind and the waves are there. In short, I decided to 3.4. A few long minutes later, I’m ready: I ride along the rocks. I did not even have time to join the channel, a large grain stops the wind. Here’s everything easier: in front of me a huge spike … a few long seconds later, I’m back like a steak … I finished in the rocks … phew it is not broke, the sun is back, the spot is still raging: huge waves carried endless. I launch out again: this time, after the shorebreak, I choose the right option! I spend foams. I expect then re foams. I shoot like crazy to avoid the series, I went phew. I surf, I jibe, and off you go again except as hindered by a rider, I have no other choice, the wave closes on me. In short, there, I drink the foam into the vortex that spins me again and again. The gear is gone … I swim to Lanes in pursuit. This is the end of session.
Fifth day, go to the shop in the morning, greeted by Francisco and Jason, I’m my great guide, Lawrence, to visit all the shops shape, layering, painting and workshop sail Jason Diffin. After this great morning, I continue my fifth session in a row at Ho’okipa, often with a wind that is increasing in the afternoon. This is still an opportunity for me to cross over the water the young Bernd Roediger is very impressive. The following days are alike, wind, waves and sessions are linked always to Ho’okipa. At the ninth day, Francisco, Lalo, and Jason Lawrence gave me an appointment at Camp One for the photoshoot Goya freeride and freestyle. I found much of the team and for my part, it will be the new storm in 2013 under the lens of photographer Frank Berthuot. A day full of emotions. The next day, the shoot continues to Ho’okipa but this time, I found the parking lot Junko, Pio, Bernd, Laurent, but also happens, Levi, Marcillo, Keith, Josh. I rigged the new storm in 3.5 and go … even a full day of learning.
Here, there remains that one day the next day I go to the shop to say goodbye and I want to make my 11th session in a row to Mecca. The wind is stronger today. Josh Stone out of the water preserved me: “this is the mistral at Ho’okipa today! ”
A big thank you, to Francisco and Lalo Goya, Jason Diffin Laurent Guillemin and the whole team for their hospitality and all those great times spent at their side in Maui.